When purchasing a custom made suit, the type of cloth used is integral to ensuring it looks good, feels comfortable and wears well, over many years. Here in the world of luxury fabrics, none come much better than the sublime suiting offered by the Dormeuil brand-in fact it's widely regarded as some of the very best in the world. Nevertheless, being such a premium and coveted cloth, fakes and 'misrepresented' cloth unfortunately sometimes finds its way into circulation.

If you are having a bespoke suit made and intend for the material be Dormeuil, knowing how to check if the cloth is the real deal will help you make an informed purchase. The telltale signs of real Dormeuil cloth.

A Brief Understanding of the Dormeuil Brand

Founded in 1842, the prestigious Dormeuil brand has been one of the leading producers of fine cloths and has supplied both royalty and fashion conscious people worldwide with premium luxury fabrics for over 180 years. They source their premium quality fibres from the best places around the world and create their suiting out of some of the most beautiful quality wools, cashmeres, silks and more available. The brand is now renowned worldwide by bespoke tailors and couture designers alike, who use their cloth in their collections, with their various collections being some of the most famous and recognizable in luxury tailoring among these being Tonik, Amadeus, Vansomething, and Vanquish, to name just a few.

Checking the Selvage of the Dormeuil Cloth

One of the most obvious, and simplest, ways to verify the authenticity of your Dormeuil fabric is by examining the selvage, which is the finished edge of the cloth. On true Dormeuil cloths you should find the following printed onto the selvage:

Dormeuil Brand Name

The brand name should be present on the selvage.

Collection Name

As per what you ordered, e.g. Amadeus or Tonik.

Composition Details

The blend percentages, e.g. Wool 100%, or Wool 90% Silk 10%.

Production Details

Normally a 'Made in India' declaration.

The print quality of the lettering on the selvage should be of very high quality, and there should be no smudging or distortion.

Check the Original Fabric Bunch Book

If you buy from a well-established and reputable bespoke tailor, they will have bought their Dormeuil fabrics from a certified Dormeuil dealer and will keep an official Dormeuil fabric bunch book available for their customers to browse and choose from. If your tailor produces an informal sample bunch containing fabric cut-offs then it may be that the fabric isn't directly sourced from Dormeuil. The details within the official fabric bunch book will show what is 'official' and when ordering your suit you should be presented with the relevant bunch book.

Assess the Quality and Handle of the Fabric

Dormeuil is renowned for producing fabrics that are soft and that drape incredibly well. High-quality luxury cloth should have a smooth and clean feel. Even the most lightweight of Dormeuil fabrics will have body and structure, as opposed to feeling overly flimsy. If the cloth feels rough or synthetic, or just does not feel substantial enough for the supposed weight then it may not be genuine.

Verify the Cloth Composition

Every Dormeuil fabric collection will be composed of a particular fibre blend and be manufactured to certain standards. You can check the blend of your fabric and make sure it is what it is said to be; i.e. The correct proportions for the relevant collection. A bespoke tailor for men who specializes in this sort of cloth will know exactly the properties of each fabric, and will also be able to explain it to you as and when you purchase.

Look for Official Dormeuil Cloth Labels

Most good quality Dormeuil suiting fabric will have the branded Dormeuil label either incorporated into the selvage (as mentioned above), or sometimes there will be an official Dormeuil fabric label, to be sewn onto the inside of the suit. This label will be embroidered with a very high quality finish, displaying the Dormeuil brand, as well as the collection name, if appropriate. These labels serve as an extra precaution, and if there is no label on the cloth itself, it may be a cause for concern.

Buy from a Bespoke Tailor with Integrity

Without a shadow of a doubt, the best way to ensure you get genuine Dormeuil fabric for your custom suit is to go to a reputable bespoke tailor. A well-established bespoke tailoring business will be in a position where they can source their cloth directly from authorized dealers, and will have had dealings with Dormeuil, and any of its suppliers, on a frequent basis. Such tailors will have official Dormeuil fabric bunch books on display, and know exactly where to get their cloth from.

Always Ask for a Fabric Swatch

When choosing your suiting, it is always best to ask your tailor for a swatch of the cloth so that you can take it home with you and have a detailed look at the weave, texture and feel of the material itself. Furthermore, the cloth should also have branding on the selvage that you should check as well.

Don't Be Tempted by Drastically Cheaper Price Tags

As you may have already guessed, Dormeuil cloth is premium. While the price of fabric can vary from around £80 to £300 per metre depending on composition and collection, very cheap options are going to be fake. If a deal looks too good to be true, it normally is, so always question this at the shop.

Conclusion

A bespoke suit that has been crafted using true Dormeuil cloth is a significant investment in quality, comfort and eternal style. Knowing what to look for on the selvage and in the bunch books, having a good feel for the cloth and most importantly buying from a trusted bespoke tailor will enable you to gain great satisfaction knowing your suit truly carries the essence of the Dormeuil brand and the exceptional heritage and luxury it stands for globally.